At the border it wasn’t too busy and no fuss at all really. I used my Carnet De Passage for the first time and this proved to be even easier for all I had to do was go to the military police who were stopping cars for a quick check. I went to his little hut with a chair and desk and he stamped the carnet, took his piece and that was that. Well not exactly, I had to make sure he then signed each place that was required and he also stamped the export page and not the import so once I got him to correct himself it was all said and done. Once Jan was finished vamose.
Again we had to stop as it was getting dark so we found ourselves in the centre of Ibarra. Jan went on foot to investigate the various hotels around us while I waited with the bikes. Jan was gone a long time, at least 30 minutes while I smiled, nodded, answered questions and smoked cigarettes. Then this motorbike rode by slowly, looking at me and the bikes and I looking at his Enduro 650 Suzuki, I nodded he nodded and then he rode away. Still no Jan. Then the guy on the Enduro came back and stopped, took his helmet off and asked if I was looking for a hotel. Yes but my friend hasn’t come back yet. I’ll take you to a hotel for the moto’s. Okay but wait until my friend comes back. So we talked about the regular things, where did you come from where are you going, bike stuff ….. then this couple came up to Andreas and they introduced themselves as Justo and Juanette and we talked about the same things again. We had some laughs because of my lack of Spanish but managed to say what we needed to say. Finally Jan came back and said, Bad news. The international sports are happening here in Ibarra and all the hotels are full. No problem Jan, meet Andreas. So after the introductions and more travel talk we got ready to go and follow Andreas to some hotels for the moto’s. But when I went to start my bike it didn’t want to start, similar to the same problem I had in Miranda, Columbia. However I did manage to get it going but when we arrived at the hotel that was also full, the bike wouldn’t start. So we discussed what to do, leave me with my bike and come back for me, leave Jan’s bike too and go on Andreas’ bike, but in the end I tried one last time to get her started and she did. Jan had also had problems all day trying to start his bike so we looked at each other and I said, Maybe our bikes want to stay here a couple of days eh.
So when we arrived at the next hotel I kept my hand on the throttle until it was confirmed that they had a room for us and then I let the bike die. Andreas said no problem, I have a very good friend who is a very good mechanic, manana, manana. So we pushed the bike into the secure parking and went for pizza and beer, on the back of Andreas’ bike, the three of us. That was a first after seeing for so many thousands of kilometers three or sometimes four people to a bike. We laughed all the way. The next morning Andreas said that he and his father and mother own a hardware store so he was able to take the day off and take us to his friend’s shop.
I got the bike started again but it really didn’t want to run. We suspected the carburetor was clogged from the bad gas a while back and Jan suspected one of his gaskets was broken so we hoped that Andreas’ friend would be friendly and have the time to work with us and our bikes. As it turns out he stopped what he was doing to help us both.
The mechanic’s name is Hymie, (not correct spelling). He’s the one closest in the foreground with his back to the camera. First he set up Jan with all the tools he needed to get at the gaskets and then I took my bike apart so Hymie could get at my carburetor.
I watched Hymie do the work so yet again I learned something new about my bike. Once he cleaned out the small pin, I don’t know it’s official name, he put the carb back together and started the bike. No problem, fresco. So I put the rest of the bike together while Jan, Hymie and Andreas were working on the gaskets. First, Andreas took the old ones to a nearby shop where they made some new one’s identical to Jan’s ’43 Harley, then they both sanded down the heads so they were flat and clean. Hymie assembled it all back together and again, fresco. I also saw something new again, Hymie took his screwdriver, touched the heads while the bike was running, and listened through the handle of the screwdriver, just like when you hold a glass to a wall when eavesdropping. Very cool.
Justo showed up with his georgeous Suzuki to watch and hang out. I bought some beers next door for everyone and all in all it was a great afternoon. We hoped to be finished by 4pm so we could watch the football match between Columbia and Equador at 5pm and we did. When we asked Hymie how much for the work he said nothing. Nothing, no how much? Nothing, he said with a smile. What about the new spark plug and the gaskets. Nothing. Wow, and thanks.
From left to right …. Jan, Christian(Justo’s son), Justo, 3 friends of Hymie, Hymie and Andreas. So any bikers out there who need a helping hand stop by in Ibarra to see Hymie.
And off we went for a test ride around the city and some dinner. Justo insisted on paying, moto familia.
In the evening Andreas and his friend Ricardo took us out of the city to a a men’s club to watch the football match but they lost. So we stayed to enjoy the local culture and learned a new Spanish phrase, Toke toke. Then back to the city for some walking, bar hopping and some late night salsa. An awesome day and night.The next afternoon the gang showed up to take us to a nearby small town where a large indiginous market is. However my bike wasn’t idling properly and for some reason the choke wouldn’t move at all. I tried playing with the idle pin but it kept jumping or going so low it would stall, but I could always restart it so I went for the ride anyway. As Andreas said, manana, we’ll go see Hymie anyway as Jan had to redtighten the bolts after the gaskets seat properly. More friends of Andreas and Justo came along for the ride and guess what he was riding. The same bike as mine, and the same year. Christian and Christina.
Justo and Christian, I kinda missed but I have to guess.
This woman wanted some money so I gave her some. She kissed my hand and said a prayer. I also bought something for the first time since leaving Canada. A little something for Sadie. Now I just have to mail it.
Here we stopped at a Laguna, and had some coffee as it was quite cold up there.
The ride home was in the dark and raining. But it didn’t matter as we had good guides to take us back. The only problem for Jan and I was, where were we going to stay as the hotel we were in for the last two nights was fully booked this day. But when we got back to town Justo said, Come to my casa, so we did. We had a light dinner, some drinks and our own rooms to sleep in. It was absolutely fantastic, cozy, warm and quiet. So generous these new friends of ours from Ibarra, Equador. When we wanted to pay for anything, it was always, When we come to Canada you can pay.
Justo lead us to Hymie’s shop and then went back to work. When Jan explained what was happening with my bike Hymie wiggled the choke cable loose as it was caught under the gas tank when we put it on the other day. Then he reset the idle pin and presto, no problema, fresco. The reason I suppose was the choke was open a little all day and that’s why I couldn’t set the idle and make it consistent. One of the bolts on Jan’s bike did need to be tightened after all. Then Jan gave Hymie his heavy duty lock and cable that he’s been carrying around for a year and two months which he only ever used once. We bought a bottle of rum for Hymie, and for Andreas and for Justo, said our good-bye’s and left Ibarra for Quito. Hymie led us to the highway and we were off again.
We weren’t the only one’s unhappy with the rain.
We found a place to stop and look at Jan’s footprint book to find a good hotel but in the end we just found one by foot, that’s because Jan’s bike refused to start. He checked the spark plugs and still nothing. So he left his bike in a parking lot over night and I parked mine in the lobby of our hotel. $6 each for one room with two beds in the old part of Quito. Now that I’m all caught up I can go and get something to eat cause I’m starving. I also need to check in on Jan and see how he’s doing with his bike. It started this morning so maybe we’ll be on the road again tomorrow. Today is October 13th. Oh, I heard from Scott a week ago and he should be in Peru as I speak. I don’t know where but all is good except for some bad chicken he ate that put him down for two days. Other than that I have no idea about Scott’s journey. Oh and my bike’s running great, so far. Actually when I revved up and rode over two steps onto a slippery wet tiled floor toward the two guys holding open the glass doors of the hotel, well let’s just say they remained calm but I had to laugh cause I just kind of made a meal of it for fun. They looked relieved when I braked, turned off the bike and manouvered it by foot after that.
Quito is beautiful, but for some reason Jan and I are negative and down, probably because Jan’s bike is giving him much trouble. And also his bike is parked in a parking lot with a bitch of a woman who runs it. Sorry to be so rude but when we pulled into Quito in the pouring rain and took refuge in the entrance of her parquedero to look at the ‘Footprint’ book to see where we could find a cheap hostal, well she pissed me off in all of 30 seconds, so I started my bike and went back outside under another nearby roof and refused to go back there where Jan was stuck because his bike wouldn’t start. He had to wrench there for two days, always having to move his bike and had to pay the short time rate for a car. She was such a cow I couldn’t even look at her. Anyway in the night we decided to get out of Dodge in the morning if Jan’s bike would start, and thankfully it did.
Again it was raining and the traffic was busy of course and it was difficult getting out of town but thankfully for the GPS we made out with only one mishap; Jan had to suddenly brake but happened to do it right on a protuding reflector on the road and his front tire slipped out and he went down. I stopped and someone ran out also to help Jan. His leg was caught underneath the bike but luckily no vehicle was right behind him. We got him up and he was okay and the bike just a couple of scrapes. We gotta get outta Dodge and we did.
Morale was low and I followed behind Jan for quite some time to make sure he and the bike were okay. I didn’t take any pictures, I just wanted to use my hands on the bike, and it was pissing with rain. And since we got off to a late start we didn’t ride for too long before it was getting dark so we pulled into this gas station to fill up and head into Arbato El Centro. Then this guy came out with a wooden dagger and said it was an indiginous weapon of choice among the natives and then he handed it to me, Rigalo, No I exclaimed, Si he said again with a smile on his face. Gracias, muchos gracias amigo.
It’s not easy to see in this picture but later after I glue it onto my bike I will take a better photo of the dagger.
Later on in the evening I went for a walk and discovered a Spanish Karaokee bar. It was different to hear Karaokee in Spanish but it was just the same as any Karaokee bar, bad singing from romantic hearts.
The next morning Jan’s bike started again which was a relief. He had intended to wrench in Quito, thinking he might have water in the carberator but it’s just too big to find anything so we escaped as I mentioned before.
Excerpt from Journal
Day 121 ARBATO TO CANAR, EQUADOR An unbelievable ride, nice to be moving, and Jan’s bike agrees. All the photo’s tell the story.
This hotel does not look like the rest of the town of Canar. It’s really striking too when you see neon in small towns.
I went to leave the room to go downstairs and fiddle with the bike, but when I closed the door the whole handle came with me. I think it was just glued on. Hey Amigo, mucho problema. When I went down to the lobby the chico was making out with a chica, he wearing trendy jeans, black t-shirt, tattoo’s, jewelry and she wearing the traditional native clothing with the hat. We got into the room and then I switched rooms.
The next morning, breakfast included with hotel room $8 per room, and off we went again.
And yes my Gargoyle friend is still with me. I think he thinks a lot.
Here I stopped to let Jan catch up and a dog wandered over so I gave him my leftovers from yesterday’s lunch. There are always dogs to feed. Anyway, he was cautious when I dropped the bag three feet away from me and the bike. He slowly crept over, looked up at me, sniffed the bag, looked up at me, and then slowly picked up the bag with his teeth and then trotted over to the patch of grass behind the bike in the following photo. He got soup bones with meat, fried meat, rice and some delicious soup broth.
Up and down we went all day, from hot to cold, and cold to hot; 11,000 feet at the tops.
I stopped here as I hadn’t seen Jan for quite a while and dusk was just setting in. It usually takes Jan to the end of my cigarette to appear and sure enough ….
And there below is Loja, Equador where we have stopped for the night.
This is the entrance to the city ….
With the GPS we found El Centro, took off the excess clothing and such and started to look in the Footprint book to find a hostal with parking. Then I saw this Policia guy on a moto, a KLR 650, and nodded and pointed at my bike and he nodded and then drove away, only to return a minute later to stop and have a chat.
Then he, Jesus, escorted us to the hostal of our choice, San Luis Hostal, $9 per room. Jesus is the boss of the motorcycle division here in Loja, so he offered to take Jan to find some motor oil the following day, 50 grade, which is difficult to find anywhere. I wanted to go along but catching up with this site takes a lot of time. The more pictures, the more time. And man did I take a lot of pictures. Well, you know this already.
Today is October 17th, 2009 … Day 123. Now it’s time to feed the bike and my stomach. Actually one thing that I don’t see is a Cyber Cafe with food. A person could make a lot of money if they combined the two, well maybe, I don’t know.
The next day Jan had to repair his muffler that he knocked off when riding into the hostal garage, and some bolts that hold his leather luggage bags that had broken some time ago. It really is a full time job all this traveling. One needs a day or two just to catch up with the things you don’t get done when you’re riding. After I finish with this, it’s my turn to pay some attention to my woman like cleaning her, glueing on yet another gift, chain etc. .
The kids playing in the hostal hall that leads to the parking. Last night I spent some time getting to know the family who runs the hotel/hostal. Sophia, the youngest of the family at 1 year and 10 months, well we had a nice time trading objects, pointing at things and using only two words, ‘Uh oh’ and ‘Que’. She’s the one playing with the dog in the photo below.
YesterdayI ran into Jesus while walking around looking at things. He was on his moto and even though his helmet was on and he had glasses on I recognized him by his handshake. We talked loose ‘Spanglish’ and decided it would be good to go for dinner after he finished work but unfortunately he wasn’t available as he also had another job besides being an officer of the law. I thought this morning I heard a KLR idling downstairs at the hostal and the sound of a police honk but when I went down he was no longer there. Today we will call him to see if he wants to go for dinner before we leave Loja tomorrow morning. Regardless, yesterday when I ran into him he gave me two of these in the photo below; one for Jan and one for me.
I was also in contact with our friends from the catamaran trip from Panama to Columbia, Andy. Unfortunately Tony called it quits early due to serious bike issues and flew back to England. Andy is still in Peru but won’t be going down to Patagonia as he has run out of time. Instead he will fly to Madrid to meet his girlfriend and they will ride back together to London. Wallace apparantly is in Lima, Peru repairing his sidecar Ural, and Manfred I believe is heading for Chili to meet with his girl. Andy also ran into Jules somewhere in Peru which is cool. As for Jan and I, well, one day at a time.
After the parade left where I was on the internet, I went for lunch and bought a new watch for the one that stopped working that was traded for my original with the guy in Planeta Rica. Not big news for you but for me, wow!
Good old fashioned human work with natural brooms made from someone local.
Jan had more work to do …. and found more work to do in the process.
Saying good-bye to Sophia, she knew as she’s been through this before I’m sure.
And Jesus leading us out of Loja. I started calling him The Terminator the night before we left, what a nice guy.
And the ride out of Loja …. well, I’m going to steal that line …. a picture tells a thousand words. Honestly I couldn’t take enough pictures and I couldn’t take the time to stop and take the pictures so most of these are taken blind without changing exposure etc., but honestly I just listened to music and road this wicked road. Whenever I stopped to wait for Jan he would usually just ride by, after the usual two cigarettes, with a huge smile on his face and one thumb up. Incredible.
And admittadely, the best pictures were probably not taken. Below we crashed just outside the Peru border in Macara, Equador. We met a rider coming from the south on a Buell from the U.S. . Well holy moses, did Jan and he talk Harley’s. Later I went to my room and watched ’27 Dresses’. Actually I’ve watched some good movies lately,’You Don’t Mess With Zohan’ & ‘Fast Food Nation’. ‘Fast Food Nation’, well, having ridden through a bit of Central and South America, I can see how it should be in terms of food and raising animals for food. Below is my room for $6 a night.
Excerpt from journal …
Day 125 Loja to Macara … Jesus lead us out of town and we rode only 200km, but real nice ride. Watched ’27 Dresses’, made me happy/sad. I still have no comprehension of what it is I am here to do right now, but more often I get fractions of a thought that seem to want to make seconds.
