And then Scott and I had to decide where to ride next, being a Saturday around 5pm we decided to ride the outskirts of Mexico City and try and get somewhere south of the city for the night to avoid going north then south, and to avoid a storm. When we got onto the freeways that circle the city the traffic was obviously intense, and we both darted here and there and eventually I broke off from Scott as it felt better for me to make my own decisions that were immediate, and had to be decided in a split second like a hockey game or the like. Eventually I stopped and had a smoke on the side of the road at a bus stop and along came Scott, I waved him on thinking I’ll see him somewhere I’m sure, but I never saw him again. So I darted and weaved and braked and zoomed and meandered through and through and I finally got to a turnoff that was a wedge of vehicles trying to get on another freeway south and out of town. The pictures following do not depict the situation at all. These one’s were taken cause I had a moment to take out the camera but the rest of time was a pinball machine, a game of murder ball, or just merely a concentrated game of driving. I liked it a lot, but it takes full attention, no time for thoughts or anything else. The pollution was tough, especially when I was wedged in the middle trying to get out of town and not moving an inch. My clutch hand was exhausted.
Then later after about three hours since seeing Scott last I thought well I have his phone number but he doesn’t have mine as I got a new chip, and his phone doesn’t do text and mine doesn’t do voice mail, well I thought, it’ll be fine just gotta get a place to sleep as it’s getting dark. So I drove through a few towns on the outskirts of Mexico City looking for the right vibe but ended up riding on, and on, and on until finally I saw this big rig tipped over and it was getting dark so I said no matter what the next motel I see wherever the town I’m stopping … and I did. After negotiating price and figuring out how to get into yet another love shack, I was pulling up to where the woman was pointing in the discreet parking lot when out came Scott suddenly appearing from next door to my room. What the —-! You’re here! No way! Crazy eh, after I’d say four hours of riding to end up right next to each other in a town far from Mexico City in the same motel of all places, well, that was weird. We didn’t say much as we were both tired, and well to be honest, keeping our distances as like I said we had a different approach to the same problem. The good news is we both made it out and we didn’t have to deal with trying to find each other the next day either, we were right next door to each other. That’s cool. Here’s the love shack in the morning, I kept the gratuitous condom just in case, and drank the water.
The town of Amecameca as we were leaving ….
And we rode until we got here at Tlapa de Comonfort and decided to stay here the night. I haven’t seen another gringo since Xilitla, and we were definitely not going to see any here.
25 US a night.
El Centro Tlapa de Comonfort.
A wedding …. with guests and musicians.
… with the police holding down the fort in the background.
A beautiful Mexican town. Everyone of course just looks at us like we are from Mars, and everyone is friendly. Once I get out of the bike gear and put on the sandles for the feet that haven’t seen the light of day for a couple of years, the first thing people do is look at my white feet, for my face and arms are pretty tanned. It’s incredible really, Mexico that is. I wrote in my journal last night …. Mexico is a fluid country; like the work is shared, the common people are for the common good, the traffic, the dogs, the cars, the children, the cows, the burrows, the chickens, the goats, the old and the young; there seems to be an underlying communication of solidarity and respect, without having to say so. At least the roads we’ve been taking, the small cowboy trails basically, old school stuff that most people don’t get to see, or be immersed within. Every living thing in this country seems to move together with patience and without judgement. And I also can’t get over how quiet people are, how tactful and precise. And also contrary to what I’ve heard, the police I’ve run into are really kind. Sometimes they come up and shake my hand and say welcome senor, but mostly a nod of the head is what usually happens. You can’t take the Alberta cowboy out of me, and thankfully they taught me well. Actually and come to think of it, in all the miles so far since leaving my ex-house on Wright Avenue, I haven’t had one bad encounter. Not to say it won’t happen, but it affirms what I already believe, the earth is inhabitated by mostly good people.
And then the next morning we headed for a small road that looked straight on the map, they all do. We were headed to Marquelia and we happened on this fantastic road ….
This was the beginning, a very rough road winding up high into the mountain jungle. This bulldozer had his dog in the back, I think you can just see his head.
Unfortuanately you see these dumps in a lot of places. It’s cheaper just to toss it out the truck.
I snuck this picture and the senora said Buenas Tardez, I give you permission to take my photo after the fact. I felt badly. I really want to take more pictures of the people and I sort of do but do it so the camera is hidden, which when moving on the bike I often miss the photograph. I know that even in the movie business some of my colleagues don’t even like their picture taken, for it steals the soul. Well way up here in the most remote of Mexico, it’s hard to point a camera at a passing soul without feeling like you’re pointing a gun at them. On this road I missed a great deal of georgeous moments, but have them in my mind at least.
Here is where a I saw a young adolescent boy and girl looking at this vista, sitting closely together; probably friends by age and soon to be lovers by circumstance for the population of this moment was maybe 25.
Scott and I agreed it was the best road even though it’s hard to compare genius roads but this one was dangerous, had every kind of surface you can imagine and we often had to go around corners into the oncoming lane which always made you stand on your toes. The truckers and the policia that we would pass along the way and then they would see us on the side of the road for a water break would honk and cheer, C’mon you’re gonna do it!
Shortly after this large puddle of red clay we hit an even bigger one that completely covered my bike but hardly Scott’s at all. We theorized how this could be but in the end don’t really know why.
I had this boy hose me down, reluctantly, but then did with a grin.
Then once we got down to the Pacific we followed all this traffic of people going to the beach hoping we would score a nice place to stay ….
…. but we ended up in a bottle neck where it looked like a big cowboy fiesta was happening, unfortunately there was no accomodation.
So we ended up here in Marquelia for 30CDN a night.
This dog was giving it to us when we first arrived. Estrada her name, I would later tease her saying hey you’re suppose to be watching the bikes.
On our way to Puerto Escondido Scott and I became separated for an hour or so and I was stuck behind this truck for quite some time, watching the guy in the back chuck the contents into the forests while slowly driving up into higher elevations.
Puerto Escondido, a beach town with great surfing and gringo from all over the world mixed with local and Mexican tourists.
60CDN per night. We are treating ourselves.
The first night I was up on the toilet all night, from some chicken or something we ate along the way. Then the next day I pulled the remnants of a bug out of my eye and I may have pink eye or an irritation. To top it off on the second day Scott and I were doing some bike maitenance in the parking lot and I think I got heat stroke as I was quite dizzy a few times. Course the idiot I was, was working in the direct sun without a shirt, da. Now it’s the third day and we’re leaving tomorrow morning to cut straight to the border of Guatemala. Here are some pic’s of Escondido ….
So I spent the day on the beach which was always the plan to stay the extra day. I read some Spanish, swam in the ocean, with my eyes open to clean the pink eye/bug irritation, thanks Rebecca that worked, and I read a little Aurelieus but mostly I watched the Mexicano’s enjoying their time on the beach. I also watched how the business worked, all the business’s. I also tried to eat as much as I could cause all I’ve wanted for the last few days is a solid or semi solid state of you know what after being on the toilet all the time. However I never really had an appetite. (Note: Scott has tutored me on parasites and such and I’m now currently semi starving them to death by only eating crackers when I”m hungry and staying more hydrated than usual. Actually I’m also trying to kill them with yeast from the cervesas too, a guy’s gotta have a little fun but wow, it sure takes the piss out of you this TD). So anyway, the plan this day was to chill and this is what I did….
So I was sitting here at Zicatella beach in Escondido having a glass of wine and reading and writing when these three young ladies sat at the next table and after a while one of them asked if they could take a picture, I thought she wanted me to take theirs but she said no I want to take yours while you are in the state you are in. Well I said no problem, go ahead, I’ll just keep doing what I’m doing. Later I asked them if they knew the translations for ebb and flow and waxing and waning cause the moon was waning from last nights full moon. After a many good language barriers, one of the girl’s went across the street to investigate internet wise and the older senor waiter dude knew the old translations and all in all we had a really nice talk. At the end of it all they got the waiter to take our picture and they said they would send me a copy so I can post it here. They also admitted that they thought I was famous or something and I said no I was not. All in all we had a good chat and they were sweet, confident young ladies. After I walked along the beach back to the hotel and met a couple of young dudes who were drinking from a bottle of vodka. We talked for a bit about this and that and then I realized I had seen them earlier in the day as they are back packing around until school time. They wanted me to join them for a beach party but I declined, must get back to the toilet. I’m happy to say I don’t have any pictures of the dysentry. They also complained of the increased police/military presence lately and how they have to be very careful about what they do, and to always keep their eyes wide open (when they said this their eyes were wide wide open). Scott and I have been through quite a few military check stops and occasionaly they look through our things sort of and then wave us on. I’ve noticed especially since riding along the coast that there is a strong military presence in and out of the mountains. I’ve also seen drivers of trucks on the side of the road with the Federales going through all of the food supplies. That being said, some Federales just past me on the highway today and then braked suddenly and pulled over with their lights on and blaring their horn for some cows were wandering onto the road; Scott just made it through and they blocked the way for me to continue.
The next day we hit the road …..
Sucking in the fumes every time the bus accelerated after the topes …
Entering Salinas Cruz …..
Our view from the balcony hotel room …. 29CDN
Honesty and without exaggeration I could take pictures all day anywhere in Mexico of VW Beetles …
And then a sudden downpour and storm so we pulled over and took refuge under a mechanics shop, talked a little and then decided to stay here in Pijijiapan for the night. I should have taken a picture of the mechanic’s shop, very large, cool old man. I’ve been feeling a wee sluggish so my creative side has been unwilling to see more than what my immediate mind needs and desires. That being said I’m fine, it’s just well, not a lot of energy. 39 CDN.
I really want to get pictures of the military check stops but they always decline when I ask them for a photo, which I don’t ask until they’ve said you can go, and to sneak one is intimidating cause they’re young and they have machine guns and eyes in the woods or behind barricades. Maybe I’ll figure out a good way ….
